Scotland’s eastern seaboard faces the windy North Sea and distant Norway, yet for many visitors it remains out of reach despite how easy it is to access. Part of the reason, I think, is that there aren’t many obvious sites beyond thundering Dunnottar Castle. The other reason is that it can be difficult to figure out where to stay. Most people have heard of Aberdeen, but if I’m frank it’s not the most exciting place to base yourself. There is a small town, however, near Aberdeen, accessible by both car and train, that makes the perfect base in this slice of Scotland: Stonehaven.
Eastern Scotland is comprised of Angus, Aberdeenshire, and Kincardineshire, a small district wedged between the two also known as the Mearns. Stonehaven is the county town of the Mearns, and, at less than half an hour south of Aberdeen’s town center, it makes a proximal alternative to Scotland’s third largest city. The main reason to base yourself in Stonehaven, though, is that it’s simply beautiful.
The best way to experience Scotland is to identify a number of bases from which to strike out on day trips. Such a trip-planning strategy requires that you have identified good bases, however, and this is always something I remain on the lookout for while traveling across Scotland. You can read about some of my favorite small towns in Scotland elsewhere on this site, but consider Stonehaven another on the list.
So what makes Stonehaven so great?
Location, for one. The town’s situation makes exploring the eastern coast at places like RSPB Fowlsheugh and St. Cyrus NNR, Aberdeen, Scotland’s castle country, and even the eastern Angus glens real possibilities. Close to home, as I mentioned, is Dunnottar Castle, and the best way to see Dunnottar is to hike the cliffs from Stonehaven in the evening. Simply amazing!
Much of Stonehaven is mildly pleasant grid-work streets, but the section around the shorehead is inspired. Long has Stonehaven harbor sheltered fishermen, and today as you stroll along the shorehead pier you’ll find the 16th century Tolbooth. Originally designed as a storehouse, it later became a prison and court before assuming its present guise as a museum and restaurant.
Stonehaven’s best pubs — The Ship Inn and The Marine Hotel — also peer over the shorehead. You can’t ask for better ambience for quaffing pints with salty patrons.
Beyond being the home of the deep-fried Mars bar and being the site of Keith’s Place, Stonehaven just feels good. The longer I travel around Scotland the more I rely on my intuition. This country is something of a whetstone for the sense.
Some places just feel right. Begin the hike to Dunnottar Castle from the harbor and get a load of the view of Stonehaven. You’ll feel what I mean.