Picture This: The Shores of Iona

January 6, 2012 by Keith Savage
The Shores of Iona

A cerulean knife of water separates Iona and Mull, two islands holy in their own ways. A hard rain and a chill wind cavort beneath a monotonous gray sky as I exit the ferry and step on to the white powder beach of Iona. Handfuls of visitors straggle through the one-lane town toward Iona Abbey. Many of them stop, look toward it, and smile as the rain patters against their glasses. I turn back to the Sound of Iona, wild Mull in the distance, and gaze into the glassy waters.

Dolphins arc above the waves, their steely bodies break the air in musical arpeggios. They race alongside the small ferry that tirelessly tracks to Iona and Fionnphort and back. Some of the children on board point at the animals, but their parents are too busy peering through the misty air at the abbey.
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See No Eagle, Hear No Eagle: Visiting Mull Eagle Watch

January 4, 2012 by Keith Savage
White-tailed Sea Eagle of Mull

About a year ago Sarah and I watched a special on PBS about the sea eagles of Mull. The story profiled a native of the island, Gordon Buchanan, who had returned home after making a name for himself as a world-famous wildlife photographer. He felt it was time to showcase Mull’s wildlife, and most of the hour-long program focused on the white-tailed sea eagles.

At the time I hadn’t visited Mull yet, but the gorgeous photography and massive eagles – these guys can weigh up to 17 lbs. with an 8+ ft. wingspan – put the island square on my radar. As I planned my trip around some of Scotland’s Inner Hebrides this past summer, the Sea Eagles of Mull PBS special was on mental repeat. Read more...

Hitting the Road for a Wildlife Tour of Mull

January 2, 2012 by Keith Savage
A Wet Day on Mull Searching for Wildlife

The Isle of Mull is ruled by its wildlife. Red deer, white-tailed sea eagles, golden eagles, Atlantic gray seals, otter, and a panoply of nesting, migrating, and just plain blown-off-course birds make their home on Mull and draw visitors from all over the United Kingdom and the world. The chance to see some of these animals in the wild largely drew me to Mull, and, though it’s depressing to think we’ve denuded so much of the world’s land of its wildlife, I knew a wildlife tour around Mull would be a much happier experience than visiting the local zoo.

There are several wildlife tour operators on Mull each with their own routes and specific focus. Read more...

Picture This: Light at the Heart of Iona Abbey

December 30, 2011 by Keith Savage
Inside Iona Abbey

The wooden door to the chapel slams shut behind me: A silent dimness opens up as the tempest battering Iona is closed off. Hard, simple chairs march toward a divine arched window all aglow, worn hymnals resting in the seat backs. Great pavers, damp from the Scottish autumn, jigsaw together on the floor. A cash register dings and chimes in a gift shop somewhere. Fifteen centuries ago, a building stood here that was Columba’s golem of faith. He launched sortie after sortie upon the native Picts and Scots from this scrap of land, determined to pave over their beliefs with his own: Christianity.

Into ruin and rebuilt, again and again, Iona Abbey was reborn and resurrected over the centuries. Each time an element of the original structure was ignored or forgotten until now, when what we’re left with is little more than 80 years old. Would Columba recognize today’s abbey? So I wonder about many things of antiquity that have lasted into our modern times.
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State of the Savage: December 2011

December 28, 2011 by Keith Savage
My Reflection in a Puddle in Glasgow, Scotland

The end of every year seems to alternate between an explosive bang and an expectant breath. Two years ago, as 2009 ended, I was one month into my decision to quit my job and launch a bootstrapping career as a travel writer. Sarah and I were focused, a little anxious, but prepared to follow through.

Last year at this time I’d quit my job of more than seven years and just returned from a dizzying five weeks in Argentina. My spirit was high – I was executing my vision and preparing for a year full of trips to Scotland. Fireworks!

Today, just four days from 2012, I’m a picture of uncertainty. Read more...