December 2013

In March the long, cold, dark of winter slips from the north. The chunky snows wither and fade like morning fog upon the green lakes of the forest while the wood and earth pop and swell out their heady scents into a world eager for the memory of spring. I am lost in The Meadows beneath Edinburgh, kicking through a sea of emerald green blades cut by a million yawning purple and yellow and white reminders that the darkness never lasts. The Crocuses are blooming.

All across the great and ancient wonder of Edinburgh, frigid winds whip down from the looming crags to hammer the coats of wanderers through the cobbled Old Town. I can feel my cheeks going frosted red and the wind-tears turning into crystals beyond the warmth of my eyes.
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The Isle of Skye's Black Cuillin

The Isle of Skye must be Scotland’s most-visited island, connected to the mainland by a convenient bridge and witness to hordes of tourists. Skye flops in the sea to the west shaped like a great lobster, the Trotternish and Duirinish peninsulas snapping the sea like great claws. Something of a lobster’s temperament pervades the place as it is a land of enigmatic duality, at once a small place in the minds of travelers who seek to “do Skye in a day” and a vast, nearly trackless span of mountain and heath; at once brimming with vistas spanning the western seaboard of Scotland and a claustrophobic vice when the clouds have come to roost; at once clogged with tour buses and rental cars along the A87 and yet overflowing with sacred places that have seemingly never echoed with a human voice. Read more...

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The Western Cairngorms

Today is the second entry in a new series of articles providing you with itinerary ideas for various regions around Scotland, and I will be unveiling more over the next few months. I have largely focused on specific topics throughout the life of Traveling Savage, as I’ve found that kind of specificity is often lacking in travel writing. However, just as the timing of my Best of Scotland series felt right for the past couple of months, the time is right for me to provide information at a higher level to help you in your trip-planning, idea-generation phase.

These Scotland Itinerary Ideas articles will collect many of my previous articles on the selected region into one place, along with my assessment of their criticality for the visitor and a bevy of tidbits that might’ve gotten lost along the way. Read more...

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The Kirkwall skyline from Highland Park distillery

Over the new few months I will be rolling out a new series of articles providing you with itinerary ideas for various regions around Scotland. I have largely focused on specific topics throughout the life of Traveling Savage as I feel that kind of specificity is often lacking in travel writing. However, just as the timing of my Best of Scotland series felt right for the past couple of months, the time is right for me to provide information at a higher level to help you in your trip-planning idea-generation phase.

These Scotland Itinerary Ideas articles will collect many of my previous articles on the selected region into one place, along with my assessment of their criticality and a bevy of useful tidbits that might’ve gotten lost along the way. Read more...

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