Follow the trail until you come to a road, then look for a tall chimney. These were the instructions Alistair, an ex-Royal Navy submariner, gave me as we parted ways at the old railway path on the outskirts of Pencaitland. I trudged down the muddy trail, keeping my head bent into the erratic winds and brief, icy showers and wondered when I’d see a road. The things I do for whisky.

He must have felt sorry for me.

Earlier, in the small town of Pencaitland, I had asked the bus driver if it was the right stop for Glenkinchie Distillery, uncertainty plain in my voice. Alistair, then an unknown senior stepping off the bus, shared a gap-toothed grin with me, proclaimed his “local” status, and offered to show me a shortcut to the distillery. I had been planning to take a taxi, but you don’t turn down offered help – especially from a friendly local. A taxi would cost me £15-20, he said, and by his logic that made Britain the worst country in the world. I’m an agreeable lad so I hopped off the bus and hurried to keep pace with Alistair’s jaunty gait.

Whisky? No no, Alistair was more of a rum man. Caught a taste for the stuff in the ports of the world: Samoa, the Philippines, Australia. Once he’d gotten lost in Hawaii until some American servicemen helped him back to his sub. Rum. I shivered, mostly because I detest rum but also because the weather, the old seadog exclaimed, was positively Baltic. It was a term I’d hear repeatedly on my three weeks in Edinburgh, and it was accurate. Today especially.

Alistair pointed out his home and deflected my exhortations that he go there as we continued off road to an elevated path. The old railway. Follow the path until you come to a road, then look for a tall chimney. When you’re done, come back the same way and you’ll be fine. He shook my hand, waved, and turned his silver head back the way we’d come. The directions were noticeably lacking in distances. I hurried down the path fearing the cost of the taxi ride might have been justified.

Over the Hills and Through the Woods to Glenkinchie Distillery

Over the Hills and Through the Woods to Glenkinchie Distillery


A mile and some change later I stood in front of the Glenkinchie Distillery, red cheeked and sleet spattered. The railway path had run under a windy road that I ascended and followed toward – you guessed it – a very tall chimney. Alistair was good for his word.

The distillery is a collection of pretty red brick buildings, and the place is spotless inside and out. Charlie, my guide for the personal tour, promised more technical, in-depth insight into Glenkinchie’s operation as we glided through the visitor center. Glenkinchie was founded by a couple of farmers looking to make a profit on unsold barley in the winter. It’s a common story for distilleries – why not turn sheaves of barley into barrels of liquor? This farmyard alchemy is a special kind of genius and sometimes I randomly whisper thanks. Just thanks.

Glenkinchie is known as the “Edinburgh Malt” for its proximity to that great city and the use of its Port of Leith, but it’s also unique in the single malt whisky world as one of only three Lowland whiskies. Lowland single malts are known for their light color and body, absence of smokey peat, and delicate flavors of honey, vanilla, and a bit of citrus. I gravitate to smokey, rich whiskies born on Scotland’s islands, but I’m an equal opportunity dram downer. I find it appalling that Lowland whiskies are sometimes referred to as “Lowland Ladies,” as if it’s unmanly to enjoy them. Ridiculous.

Over the Hills and Through the Woods to Glenkinchie Distillery

Charlie is pleasantly thorough. The distillery uses pure water from the Lammermuir Hills and two giant stills – some of the largest in the industry – to create the backbone of the Glenkinchie character. After 10+ distillery tours, it takes a special guide to impart new information, like how stills with greater “reflux” produce whisky with a lighter body or the process of rejuvenating oak casks after 30 years of use. It’s fascinating stuff to a whisky nerd like me (comment if you’d like to know more about a certain process).

I’m nearly shaking with…excitement by the time Charlie brings me into the tasting room. The bar is laden with brilliant bottles of honey-colored liquor glowing in the lamp light. Glenkinchie is part of Diageo’s Classic Malts marketing program, and sister malts from Talisker, Clynelish, Lagavulin, and others are available here, on second fiddle of course. I love distillery tours because I find that, especially with single malt whisky, the more you understand the process of making the liquor the more you enjoy the consumption of it.

At the bar I meet Rhona, all around nice person and Glenkinchie’s home brand manager. The three of us chat as I enjoy their standard expression, Glenkinchie 12-year. It’s one of the whiskies Sarah and I offered at our wedding, and the creamy, floral, citrus flavor brings back happy memories. It’s good, actually much rounder and full-flavored than I recall. Glenkinchie is unique in that they offer tour-goers two drams of your choice, so Rhona pours me the Glenkinchie Distiller’s Edition, which has spent time in a Sherry butt at the end of maturation. The nose on this dram is loaded: fruit, malt, something resembling fruitcake. It’s just as good as the 12 and even more to my liking with the additional dark fruit flavors coming from the Sherry.

Over the Hills and Through the Woods to Glenkinchie Distillery

Over the Hills and Through the Woods to Glenkinchie Distillery

When Rhona pulls out the Glenkinchie Cask Strength we’ve left a typical tour’s offering far behind and gone pro. I didn’t even know Glenkinchie made cask strength whisky; I’m embarrassingly giddy – it’s my favorite style. This dark amber potion is only available at the distillery, and perhaps for good reason. The world might not be ready for this 59.1% ABV redefinition of Lowland whisky. It’s as complex a cask strength whisky as any I’ve had, the flavor developing on my palate like a skein of colors on oil in the sun. Toasted malt, lemon cakes, dates, and flowers.

I’m reaching my happy place when the Glenkinchie 20-year hits the table. I marvel at Rhona’s ability to produce rare whiskies like rabbits from a hat. It’s another cask strength affair, but this one is more delicate and balanced with the same muscle behind it. It’s fantastic.

Then, the coup de grace: Glenkinchie The Manager’s Choice. Bottled from a single cask and retailing for £250, when this bottling’s gone it’s gone. Big, overflowing with scents, a myriad of flavors – this is what whisky tastes like. There’s been no adulteration by water or coloring or mixing with other casks. This product moves from the cask to the bottle to your stomach. I remember it being sugary, a hint of lemon, and oily in a good way. There was white chocolate and flowers and the longest goodbye. It’s a dram that will be remembered.

Rhona and Charlie’s incredible tasting session plastered a stupid grin on my face as I browsed the gift shop. I wasn’t concerned about the sleety soaking I’d endure on my return trip to Pencaitland. When you’re done, come back the same way and you’ll be fine.

And I did. And I was.

Full disclosure: Glenkinchie Distillery provided a complimentary tour and drams, bless their hearts.

Article Comments

  1. Ken March 28, 2011 at 2:52 pm

    Great post, Keith. So many distilleries and expressions, so little time. Me for cask strength, too. I think I’ll have to try the Glenkinchie tho the cask strength is not available here, sadly.

    1. Keith Savage March 28, 2011 at 3:33 pm

      The cask strength is only available at the distillery. Apparently they kept aside some of the Distiller’s Edition over the years and decided to do a limited bottling of cask strength whisky. I think they should make it a regular.

  2. Erica March 29, 2011 at 4:28 am

    I really wish I liked whiskey. 🙁

    1. Keith Savage March 29, 2011 at 9:00 am

      I don’t like whiskey either, but I do love whisky. 😉 A minor, but important, distinction.

  3. Pat March 29, 2011 at 8:00 am

    I thoroughly enjoyed your article, both for the mysterious journey and the knowledge imparted– but mostly for the sumptuous descriptions of each. Thank you! I had to look up dram. Am I right that 8 drams equal an ounce?

    1. Keith Savage March 29, 2011 at 9:01 am

      A dram in terms of whisky is between 25 and 35ml, or .85 to 1.2 oz. Basically, a dram is roughly equal to an ounce.

  4. Jools Stone March 29, 2011 at 8:14 pm

    I think I can see the rictus grin on those sleet splattered, wind ruddied Wisconsin cheeks from here, cheers!

    1. Keith Savage March 30, 2011 at 7:38 am

      I can’t help but grin when in the proximity of a Scottish distillery. 🙂

  5. Patricia April 18, 2012 at 3:39 pm

    Great post. My boyfriend and I are heading to Edinburgh in a month and trying to decide if we should include Glenkinchie.

    You gave some directions for walking there, but were those from the station? If not, could you tell us the shortcut from that starting point? Thanks for the help!

    1. Keith Savage April 18, 2012 at 4:51 pm

      I think it’s a worthy stop as a day-trip. Take the bus from Princes Street in Edinburgh to Pencaitland. Check the times though, since that bus might not run very frequently/every day. I got in the center of Pencaitland, which was just a minor crossroads. I asked the bus driver how to get to the distillery and a nice old guy on the bus offered to show me the way. Stroke of luck really.

      He took me about a mile to an old railroad that was now a walking path, but I don’t recall the streets! Here’s what I suggest: email the distillery and ask for walking directions from the center of Pencaitland (they’ll suggest you take a cab but it’s NOT worth it). Failing that, just ask the bus driver when you get off. Or someone on the bus. People are invariably nice and helpful. Good luck!

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